The term chypre has a long history of use in perfumery. French for Cyprus, chypre originally referred to fragrances made using materials endemic to the island. Its modern usage dates to 1917 to the release of Coty's Chypre. His fragrance took inspiration from the chypre of old and modernized the accord. Since 1917, the term has been used to refer to fragrances that contain a combination of oakmoss, cistus labdanum, bergamot and patchouli. In recent years, as restricitions have hampered the used of oakmoss in fragrances, so-called modern chypres have increasingly relied on patchouli and treemoss to create the characteristically earthy-mossy effect.